Rocky Mountaineer to the Last Frontier: A Complete Review of our New Alberta to Alaska Holiday

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Travel Review by Mr. and Mrs. Purchase

Having landed at Calgary airport and made it through airport security in an impressive 10-minutes flat, we settled back for a scenic drive to Banff. It didn’t take long for the first landmark to catch our attention. Just outside downtown Calgary, rising dramatically above the landscape, was a striking structure—the steep ski jump perched as if reaching for the sky. Our driver took great delight, having established that there were British aboard, to point out that this was where Eddie the Eagle made his name during the Winter Olympics of 1988.

When we arrived at the Caribou Lodge and Spa in Banff, we were impressed with the décor and amenities and the staff at reception were helpful and courteous. Unpacked and refreshed we then ventured into town, our three-day pass for the local buses making exploring Banff a breeze. Easy to navigate, the town’s charming streets are lined with boutique shops, cosy cafés, and inviting restaurants, all set against the stunning backdrop of the Rocky Mountains.

The following day we opted to experience the Banff Gondola, and we were not disappointed! This eight-minute ride to the summit of Sulphur Mountain offered us breathtaking views of six mountain ranges. The ride itself was smooth, and once at the top, we wandered along the trails, taking in panoramic vistas that felt like they belonged on a postcard. On our return bus ride, an unexpected thrill awaited us—a black bear sighting right by the roadside. Though we were initially ecstatic, our driver chuckled and explained that this bear was a local regular. Still, it felt special to us, adding an element of excitement to an already memorable day.

The following morning, we joined the Brewster Bus Tour for a day exploring the Icefields Parkway. The first stop, the dramatic Columbia Icefield Skywalk, left us in awe. Suspended high above the valley floor, the glass-bottom walkway offered stunning views of rugged cliffs and glaciers below—a thrilling experience, even for those a little wary of heights.

Lunch was included at the visitor centre, and the buffet meal was excellent, offering a satisfying break before the highlight of the day: the Athabasca Glacier. Transferring to the uniquely engineered Ice Explorers, we ventured onto the glacier itself. Stepping out onto this vast sheet of ancient ice was nothing short of extraordinary, and the stark drop in temperature reminded us of the glacier’s power.

On our next adventure, we were to meet our fellow Rocky Mountaineer travellers, Peter and Ilene, who would be our neighbours and companions for the next couple of days. They celebrated their fortieth wedding anniversary on the second day of the train journey, which was great fun, and the team in our coach were certainly on board with the occasion. In fact, the whole Rocky Mountaineer experience was wonderful, and on the journey from Jasper to Vancouver we spied spectacular scenery, from towering mountain peaks to winding rivers.

In case you are indecisive, in our opinion, Gold Leaf is the way to go, and very much worth the extra money. While we experienced occasional delays due to long freight trains, the seamless handling of luggage and the attentive service more than compensated. And not forgetting the unobstructed views from the expansive windows of the Gold Leaf Dome Coach and the gourmet dining.

A day of rest to recover from the hectic schedule of the train was very welcome, and we were glad we chose to take it easy in Vancouver before boarding our ship. With time to spare, we took a stroll and then a horse-drawn ride through the beautiful Stanley Park and ended the day enjoying dinner at the Top of Vancouver Revolving Restaurant, complete with spectacular views as the sun went down.

Early the next day we hailed a taxi for the short ride to Canada Place to join our cruise to Alaska and the Inside Passage. At the terminal, we were swiftly directed to the drop-off point where we left our luggage. Once we had checked in and cleared US Immigration, we made our way down the gangplank to our stateroom. There, we were met by our concierge, Christian, who showed us around, our introduction showcasing the Pinnacle Lounge. The upgrade to the Pinnacle Suite was a worthwhile travel enhancement, and this being our first cruise, Christian and his associate, Jennifer, were always on hand if we had any questions; in fact, we were looked after royally throughout our time on the ship.

In terms of the food, we found the secluded Pinnacle Grill to be a delight for breakfast, and while we generally preferred the sophistication of the dining room, the Lido Buffet was always a good stand-in when we needed something quick or out of hours. The Dutch Royal Tea was another welcome extra on sea days, and the speciality restaurants served delicious dishes with flair.

When it came to the presentations about the peoples and places of Alaska these were very informative, and we particularly enjoyed the visit by the Park Rangers of Glacier Bay. Sadly, the weather prevented our seaplane flight across the Juneau Glaciers, but as an alternative, we enjoyed some time with a team of Huskies, and we were pulled around rather a damp course. The dogs were, of course, unperturbed by the weather!

Soon enough, the day of our own wedding anniversary arrived. To our surprise, we had barely opened our cabin door when Christian appeared to send us his best wishes. Various other acknowledgements continued throughout the day with some very interesting towel creations later in the evening. It is fair to say, the staff aboard our cruise made us feel extra special.

Returning to Vancouver was bittersweet as it marked the end of our very first maritime adventure, but we did feel ready to move back to ‘dry land’. We were equally glad that we had booked an extra night in Vancouver in between disembarkation and flying home. Here, we took the opportunity to book a flight excursion due to our seaplane trip being cancelled in Juneau. While the scenery was obviously very different from that which we would have seen in the Ice Fields, it was still nothing short of spectacular.

I think we would say that the most memorable event of our Alaska cruise was seeing the vast glaciers and the breathtaking scenery of the inlets. With these fast-disappearing features, we are glad to have been able to visit this part of the world before these vast bodies of ice become a distant memory—experts claiming that two-thirds of the world’s glaciers could disappear by the end of this century.

Overall, our holiday was a fantastic experience and one that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. We are both very grateful to have had the opportunity to do what we did. Here’s to the next adventure!

Mr. and Mrs. Purchase travelled on the 14-night Rockies, Rail & Sea | From Alberta to Alaska holiday with the couple departing in early September.  The flexible itinerary can be tailor-made to suit your preferences and style of travel.

For more information and to book, call our specialists on 020 8776 8709 or email us at Canada@frontier-travel.co.uk. ATOL PROTECTED No. 5405 ABTA W3207.