Canada by Road, Rail, and Lake: An Unforgettable Holiday
By Jeremy Timms, Managing Director of Frontier Canada
Our Canadian adventure began with a wonderfully smooth start at Heathrow Airport. We booked Purple Parking in advance, which made leaving the car stress-free, and the short shuttle to the terminal meant no rushing. Bag drop and security were a breeze – no long queues and nothing even had to come out of our bags. Soon we were enjoying the calm of Air Canada’s Maple Leaf Lounge. The only minor quirk was its location in another wing of the terminal, but the chance to relax with refreshments before our flight more than made up for the extra walk.
The flight to Halifax, Nova Scotia was pleasant and uneventful, and while the airport is undergoing renovations, it was still easy to navigate. Within minutes of collecting our luggage we were in a taxi heading downtown. The Lord Nelson Hotel welcomed us with a grand façade and gracious lobby. Rooms were comfortable, beds enormous, and the location ideal: a quick stroll to the hilltop Citadel in one direction and a gentle ten-minute walk to the bustling waterfront in the other. Halifax proved a delightful first stop, full of maritime charm. We wandered the boardwalk lined with boutique shops and waterside patios, explored the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic with its poignant Titanic artifacts, and soaked up history at the Citadel where guards in bearskin hats and a lone bagpiper brought the city’s British past to life. Dinner highlights included the retro-styled Economy Shoe Shop and the atmospheric Gahan House brewpub, each serving excellent food and local craft beer.
From Halifax we took the overnight train to Montréal and collected our rental car for the next stage of the journey. Leaving the city was easy, and soon we were winding through Ontario’s countryside. Our first treat was a helicopter ride over the spectacular 1000 Islands near Gananoque, an unforgettable way to see the lacework of waterways and green islets.
We continued to Kingston, where the Residence Inn Marriott offered spacious suites and a hearty breakfast. Kingston quickly became one of our favourite stops: a vibrant waterfront, handsome architecture, and a lively downtown of independent shops and cafés.
We joined a twilight Haunted Walk, toured the historic Fort Henry with its lively re-enactments, and stepped aboard the S.S. Keewatin, a beautifully preserved 1907 steamship older than the Titanic. With attractions like the Kingston Penitentiary and Murney Tower close by, we agreed that two to three nights here is perfect to explore without rushing.
Next came tranquil Rice Lake and the family-friendly Elmhirst Resort. Each cottage has its own private jetty and lake views, ideal for kayaking, biking, or simply unwinding by a crackling barbecue. The cottages themselves were spacious, comfortable, and well-suited for families or groups. The farm-to-table Hearthside Dining Room served a memorable dinner, while the more casual Wild Blue Yonder offered hearty fare and cocktails. The resort’s location also made it easy to explore the surrounding area. Short drives brought us to nearby towns like Hastings and Peterborough, where we stocked up on essentials and enjoyed local attractions such as The Canadian Canoe Museum.
On the way to Toronto we treated ourselves to Butter Tarts at Doo Doo’s Bakery in Bailieboro and admired the towering metal sculptures at Primitive Designs in Port Hope—both worthy detours.
Toronto greeted us with urban buzz and endless variety. We strolled to the historic Distillery District for live music, artisanal shops, and craft cocktails, then browsed colourful Kensington Market the next morning. This was a unique, colourful, bohemian in style neighbourhood with lots of old style shop fronts and arty/gifts/indie merchandise.
We headed to Toronto Blue Jays baseball game at Rogers Stadium which was a great experience, complete with the obligatory foot-long hot dog. Our base at the Chelsea Hotel—with its rooftop adults-only pool—made it easy to relax after a busy day.
Venturing north, we travelled along the Bruce Peninsula for our stay at Tobermory, located on the northern most point. The Tobermory Princess Hotel, overlooking Little Tub Harbour, provided beautiful sunset views despite ongoing renovations. We hiked the dramatic Devil’s Monument trail, cruised in a glass-bottomed boat over century-old shipwrecks, and landed on Flowerpot Island to see its famous stone pillars and lighthouse. Dinner at the Tobermory Brewing Company capped off the day nicely, and we thoroughly enjoyed the local beer and warm hospitality.
The next morning we sailed aboard the M.S. Chi-Cheemaun ferry to Manitoulin Island, the world’s largest freshwater island. Its quiet roads, tiny galleries, and scenic Cup and Saucer hiking trail made for a peaceful contrast to the bustling cities. Crossing the historic Little Current Swing Bridge felt like stepping back in time.
Our route then curved through quintessential Canadian scenery—endless fir forests and glistening lakes—towards Huntsville. Deerhurst Resort was an unexpected delight, offering spacious suites with lake views and a full kitchen for easy self-catering. Days here were filled with outdoor adventure: hiking through the mossy Limberlost Forest, spotting chipmunks and frogs, and paddling across the lake past handsome summer homes.
A highlight of our stay was a full day exploring Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario’s oldest and most iconic wilderness reserve. Spanning nearly 8,000 square kilometres of forests, rivers, and over 2,000 lakes, the park feels wonderfully remote despite being only a short drive from Huntsville. We purchased a day pass online in advance (a must for parking) and set out with a picnic and plenty of insect repellent.
Our first stop was the easy Whiskey Rapids Trail, a gentle 2-kilometre loop along the Oxtongue River. Here, towering pines framed quiet river bends where we spotted beaver dams and the scent of spruce and the soft carpet of pine needles underfoot set a tranquil mood.
Then we aimed for something wilder and followed the trailhead to Mizzy Lake, one of Algonquin’s best-known wildlife routes. We didn’t have time for the full 10-kilometre circuit, but even a shorter stretch was stunning. Dragonflies hovered above lily-covered ponds, and the calls of loons echoed across the water. At one point we heard the distinct call of a moose on the other side of the lake, but it stayed in the shadows and loped off.
Everywhere the park felt alive: chipmunks chattered in the undergrowth, frogs plopped into still pools, and the shifting light through the trees gave every viewpoint a painterly glow.
As we drove back towards Huntsville, we detoured to Arowhon Pines, a serene lakeside lodge deep within the park. Its secluded cabins and fine-dining restaurant looked perfect for travellers seeking a peaceful retreat right inside the wilderness. We also visited Bluewater Acres, a family-friendly resort just outside the park, where self-catering cottages and a sandy beach provide an ideal base for longer stays.
Finally we reached Ottawa, a city grander and more cosmopolitan than we expected. While valet parking at the Lord Elgin Hotel was temporarily unavailable, we found convenient and affordable parking at nearby City Hall, just a short walk from the hotel, which made getting settled stress-free.
During our stay, we enjoyed a variety of experiences. Evenings were magical, particularly thanks to the Les Grands Feux fireworks festival, where fireworks launched from a barge on the Ottawa River lit up the sky against the iconic backdrop of Parliament Hill – a spectacular sight not to be missed. By day, we explored the political and cultural heart of the city. A visit to Parliament Hill offered impressive architecture and beautiful riverside views, while a walk across the Alexandra Bridge brought us to Gatineau, Quebec, where the Canadian Museum of History proved a highlight. The museum’s air-conditioned galleries were a welcome respite from the summer heat and offered fascinating insights into Indigenous totems, Canadian history, and cultural heritage.
Back in Ottawa, ByWard Market impressed with its lively, historic charm. Bustling streets were lined with artisan stalls, fresh produce, and diverse eateries. We discovered the perfect spot for casual dining at El Furniture Warehouse, which served large portions and excellent beers at unbeatable prices—a definite winner for both food and value. For something more adventurous, we tried a local escape room, solving a pirate mystery together, which was a fun and memorable experience.
On our final day, we ventured slightly outside the city to Gatineau Park, a stunning natural retreat with over 139 square miles of trails. Even a short visit revealed why it’s perfect for hiking enthusiasts, offering trails ranging from gentle strolls to challenging routes with panoramic views.
From east-coast harbours to island ferries, from urban baseball games to silent pine forests, this holiday captured the full spectrum of Canada’s beauty. Scenic drives, welcoming towns, and a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation made every stop memorable. Whether you’re chasing history, wildlife, or simply breathtaking landscapes, this route shows just how rewarding a Canadian road-and-rail holiday can be.
Ready to explore Canada? Let us create an experience that feels personal to you. Connect with our dedicated team of Canada specialists on 020 8776 8709 or email Frontier Canada at canada@frontier-travel.co.uk and start planning your holiday with us. ATOL PROTECTED No. 5405 ABTA W3207.
