Journey Across Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast with Canada specialist Jeanette Dembrey

Home > Blog > Journey Across Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast with Canada specialist Jeanette Dembrey

British Columbia has long been a destination that inspires wanderlust, with its rugged coastlines, towering mountains, rich cultural heritage and incredible wildlife safaris. Earlier this year, I embarked on an unforgettable 18-day fly-drive across Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast, exploring some of the most awe-inspiring landscapes that the province has to offer.

From the historic streets of Victoria to the wild beauty of Knight Inlet, the Broughton Archipelago, and Egmont, here’s a closer look at the places, experiences, and moments that made this trip one to remember.

Please note: When booking your holiday, our team of specialists can advise on wildlife viewing experiences you should pre-book to avoid disappointment. We will also be able to provide clear recommendations on the time you need to allow when making ferry crossings, as not all local operators accept reservations.

Arrival in Victoria: First Impressions and Historic Gems

Kickstarting my first day in “The City of Gardens,” I took the Grayline Hop-On-Hop-Off tour, which turned out to be the perfect introduction. This tour takes you to the city’s most iconic spots, like Fisherman’s Wharf, historic Chinatown, Oak Bay Village, and the stunning Craigdarroch Castle.

By mid-afternoon, I’d strolled through the picturesque Inner Harbour, sampled a delicious to-go afternoon tea from Pendray Inn (Victoria also bears the title of ‘Craft Beer Capital of Canada‘), and embarked on my first wildlife adventure with Orca Spirit Adventures. Though the sea was rough that day and the whales were elusive, we did spot a raft of playful sea otters and several graceful bald eagles—an exhilarating start to the trip.

The Malahat Skywalk and Tofino: A Journey through Ancient Forests

Leaving Victoria, I picked up a rental car and drove up the Trans-Canada Highway, stopping first at the Malahat Skywalk. A unique attraction that’s part scenic lookout, part adventure, the spiral structure rises 25 meters above the Salish Sea and offers sweeping views of Mount Baker and the lush forests of Vancouver Island. Another key point of interest, en route I visited Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Park. Walking among towering Douglas firs, some as wide as nine meters in circumference, felt like stepping back in time to a primordial forest.

A further scenic drive brought me to Tofino, where I stayed at Middle Beach Lodge, my room overlooking the serene Mackenzie Beach. Always ready to explore, the Tonquin Trail coastal pathway led me straight to the heart of the seaside town, where I joined a whale-watching tour with Remote Passages. This time, luck was on my side. Our first sighting was a very large group of sea otters. This was closely followed by a fortuitous mist of spray in the distance and two majestic grey whales, the pair gliding effortlessly through the waters of Clayoquot Sound.

Bears and Beaches: Exploring Tofino and Ucluelet

Tofino’s charm lies in its blend of raw nature and welcoming, laid-back culture. Over the next few days, I indulged in local coffee at Rhino, feasted on seafood at the Wolf in the Fog, and explored trails including the Rainforest and the Nuu-Chah-Nulth. For those with a bit more time, kayaking to Meares Island is a must, the adventure including a peaceful paddle through old-growth forests.

One particularly early morning, I set out on a bear-watching excursion, again with Remote Passages. As the tide receded, we ventured to the beaches where black bears foraged for clams and barnacles. During this expedition, we were fortunate enough to catch sight of a female bear, along with a pair of bald eagles soaring above—just a typical day in Tofino.

Ucluelet, only a short drive from Tofino, boasts the Wild Pacific Trail, and if you like to hike you won’t want to miss the 8-kilometre path that winds through the forest leading you to breathtaking views of Barkley Sound. The Lighthouse Loop is a more gentle affair connecting you to the historic ​Amphitrite Lighthouse, but again it was particularly memorable and notably atmospheric, the waves crashing loudly below me as I trekked along rugged coastal bluffs.

Knight Inlet Lodge: Grizzlies, Eagles, and Orcas

One of the main highlights of the trip was my stay at the indigenous owned, Knight Inlet Lodge, a property only accessible by floatplane. The 20-minute flight to reach the wildlife retreat came with stunning views of the dense rainforests and glistening waters below, our journey setting the scene for an adventure unlike any other.

On our very first wildlife viewing expedition, we headed out into the estuary on a small boat and were greeted by a group of six playful Pacific white-sided dolphins. They swam alongside us, dipping and leaping as we cruised around the cove. As we made our way across the water, bald eagles circled overhead, each one of these fiercely spirited creatures eagerly scanning the brackish depths for their next meal.

We followed this excursion up with a spectacular sightseeing cruise around the inlet, the area surrounded by towering mountains, lush forest and pretty islets. As we made our way past waterfalls and took in the impressive scenery, our indigenous guides—the lodge is First Nation owned—shared tales of local legends and history. Glendale Cove and Knight Inlet are the traditional territory of the Da’naxda’xw/Awaetlala First Nation. These waters form part of their ancestral territory, with generations of their community living, harvesting and travelling through the region long before modern visitors arrived.

Later that same afternoon, we headed back out to Glendale Cove for a small-boat wildlife tour, hoping to spot a grizzly bear. It wasn’t long before we saw what looked like a boulder moving on the beach—our first sighting! We watched, captivated, as the bear flipped rocks, looking for clams and barnacles to snack on. It was a magical 20 minutes of nature fuelled euphoria.

A timely surprise, our June trip coincided with mating season, and just by chance on one of our more memorable expeditions, we spotted a male and female grizzly. The female was foraging for food while the male stayed close by, hoping for a chance to pair up. We followed them along the shoreline, watching them for nearly an hour before they eventually disappeared into the trees.

As part of our stay, the lodge’s guides also provided insights into the world these incredible animals navigate daily by way of a tracking tour. The adventure involves, first, a journey by boat and, second, a 4×4 trip into the forest, which lands you right in the heart of the grizzlies’ territory. Bear signs can include day beds, bear trails, “rub” trees, and tracks. The object of tracking is not to see a bear, but you learn so much about their behaviour and habitat, and stepping into the forested world of bears is fascinating as it lies beyond your usual vantage point of the boats.

By far the easiest of the hiking tours, and offered all season long, is the “Above the Clouds” excursion. The expedition includes an interpretive walk, a 4×4 drive and a 1.5-kilometre hike, with the trek taking you along boardwalks leading to a standing platform that offers breathtaking panoramic views across the inlet.

Even the lodge, which lies cradled by mountains and ancient rainforest, is enveloped in the untamed beauty of nature. One evening, our guide spotted a transient orca from the deck, a novel occurrence, and on another occasion, a bald eagle swooped down to catch a seemingly enormous fish. After an initial struggle, the bird eventually flew off toward its nest, with its gigantic catch in tow.

From the thrilling adventures to the enjoyable communal dining, where everyone shared their stories, and the fascinating evening presentations, a visit to Knight Inlet Lodge leaves you feeling deeply connected to the wild.

Exploring Northern Vancouver Island: Hidden Cove Lodge and Telegraph Cove

Next I headed to Hidden Cove Lodge near Port McNeill with a brief detour to Port Hardy, a charming gateway for Prince Rupert and Bella Bella. Nestled in the traditional territory of the Kwakiutl First Nation, the port is the oldest known site of human habitation on Vancouver Island. Its surrounds are home to rugged trails, sandy beaches, and serene paddling spots, making it the perfect place to indulge in a harbour stroll.

Legs stretched and one more scenic drive later, and I finally arrived at what is a charming eco-friendly property. Hidden Cove Lodge is tucked away in the rainforest, the retreat boasting breathtaking panoramas across the Johnstone Strait and stunning views of Alert Bay and Malcolm Island. It was here that I had one of my most unforgettable encounters.

From the lodge’s deck, I spotted a black bear walking along the shoreline with two little cubs following behind. Wonderful to see, an hour easily drifted by, as I watched the mother foraging for food. Starting at one end of the beach, she eventually headed around to the front of the lodge until she was practically underneath my room.

The lodge, powered by wind, solar, and generators, features cosy guest rooms and a lounge with full-glass windows, perfect for wildlife watching. If you are seeking more privacy, the oceanside cottages and suites offer similar mesmerising views.

Located close by, Telegraph Cove, is a historic fishing village adorned with brightly coloured waterfront buildings. The perfect stop for a taste of Vancouver Island’s coastal heritage, I explored the boardwalk, visited the Whale Interpretive Centre, and enjoyed a delightful lunch at the Killer Whale Cafe. If you love wildlife tours, fishing charters, or kayaking, this picturesque hamlet has it all.

Home of the killer whale, Alert Bay is another spot that is deserving of a visit. One of a very few authentic fishing villages, the First Nations cultural tourism destination is only a 45-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill. Once here, you have the privilege of diving deep into indigenous traditions at the Umista Cultural Centre, or you can simply take a leisurely dip into its stores and galleries.

Also reacheable by ferry, Malcolm Island has little in the way of big tourist attractions, but you can wander the town’s streets, grab a coffee, visit the museum, an art studio, or even enjoy a day hike. Worthy of the trek, Bere Point Regional Park is a short pathway that takes you to the Point and the start of the Bay Bay Trail. Perched high above the point is a viewing platform, and if you are lucky, you will see orcas swimming by or even rubbing on the beach below.

Where the Wildlife Always Surprises You: Farewell Harbour Lodge

After a final breakfast at Hidden Cove Lodge, I took a short drive back to Alder Bay, the starting point of my journey towards Farewell Harbour Lodge. While waiting for the noon departure, I basked in the peaceful ambience of the marina, sipping my drink and watching bald eagles swoop majestically across the sky. Enchanting as it was, nothing could quite prepare me for the surprise encounters on the upcoming boat ride.

As we navigated between the Queen Charlotte Strait on one side and the Johnstone Strait on the other, we spotted a group of sea otters bobbing in the water, their large, round eyes staring pointedly at us. It seemed as though they were as curious about us as we were about them. Not long after, a misty plume appeared on the horizon—a Humpback whale! It gave us an unforgettable show, gracefully diving and flashing its iconic fluke. We couldn’t believe our luck.

Farewell Harbour Lodge soon came into view, the property nestled within the Southern Great Bear Rainforest and the heart of the Broughton Archipelago Marine Park. Owned by the McGrady and Brockway families, the private retreat features a a huge brick fireplace framed by panoramic windows that overlook the water. A delicious spread of refreshments awaited, and after a brief break, we suited up in our waterproofs and life jackets and set off for our first excursion.

As we journeyed across the waters in search of humpbacks and orcas our guides shared fascinating insights about the area’s marine life and history. In no time at all, we encountered a mother humpback and her calf—a moment so breathtaking, pictures could never do it justice.

On our full-day excursion to Knight Inlet and Glendale Cove, we were very much hoping to spot grizzlies, and again, it wasn’t long before we were rewarded. A light-brown female grizzly appeared along the rocky shoreline and, later, a dark-furred mother joined us with her two tiny cubs. Watching the cubs play and mimic their mother was the kind of experience that brings nature’s wonders to life, a rare glimpse into the tender side of the wild.

Our guides pointed out everything from bald eagles soaring above to sea otters and dolphins, and by the time we returned to the lodge, we felt exhilarated, but there’s always time for one last forest walk when you are located in such idyllic surroundings. Worth all the effort; the trails are well-marked and easy to follow, with the paths winding through lush forests and emerging back behind the lodge.

There seemed to be no end to the magnificent wildlife sightings. Even when the days dawned misty and foggy, humpbacks, eagles, harbour seals, sea otters, and even a large pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins would emerge from the haze, each encounter more breathtaking than the last. At one point, the dolphins came right up to our boat, the pod riding alongside us in a thrilling display that left us all speechless.

On our final morning, I opted for a peaceful kayaking session, our group gliding past Flower Island, where eagles and seagulls were diving after a recent whale feeding. Watching the flurry of birds was its own kind of magic.

Evenings at the lodge are also something special. Every night there is an optional “swim club” where guests can brave the chilly waters—though I opted to watch from the dock—and after dinner, the guides hold presentations on various topics from humpbacks to bears.

Not simply a place to spot grizzlies or humpbacks, at Farewell Harbour Lodge you learn to connect with the wilderness and the wildlife. A conclusion that became all the more clear when we received a final farewell from the humpbacks on our return to Alder Bay. A fitting end to an extraordinary stay.

The Sunshine Coast: Lund, Sechelt, and Beyond

Departing Vancouver Island, I took a ferry from Comox to Powell River, marking the start of my Sunshine Coast adventure. Designated as mile zero on Highway 101—one of the longest highway networks in the world—Lund (Kla ah men), is located at the north end of the Sunshine Coast, the village sitting on the traditional territory of the Tla’amin, Klahoose, and Homalco First Nations.

Part of a Canada that is less-well explored, Lund is the gateway to the nearby Savary Island, the Copeland Islands, Desolation Sound, and Sarah Point, where the 180-kilometre Sunshine Coast begins. The whole region is considered to be one of the country’s best-kept secrets, this remote backwater well worth the visit.

From Lund, I boarded the ferry for the short crossing to Earl’s Cove, the landscape switching to beautiful overarching trees and forest. Forever the explorer, before heading to my next lodgings, I noticed a sign for the Skookumchuck (meaning string water) Narrows Provincial Park, an inviting wander that proved too hard to resist.

A 4km hike (each way) takes you to the Sechelt Rapids, the paved trail surrounded by rainforest and filled with towering canopies and lush ferns. En route, you pass Brown Lake before reaching a sign for North Point and Roland Point. I opted for the latter, and after another 20 minutes, I arrived at what are the fastest saltwater rapids in North America. Reaching speeds of up to 16 knots, (30kms/per hour) the currents shift with the tides, their power testament to the untamed beauty of Canada’s wilderness.

Nature’s Playground: West Coast Wilderness Lodge

On reaching the car, I set off again and drove the short distance to the charmingly rustic West Coast Wilderness Lodge.  The restaurant opens up to a sweeping vista of the Sechelt Inlet, as did my Ocean Suite room, a scene I would encounter at breakfast, lunch, dinner, and beyond. And let me tell you, that view never got old.

Our first adventure took us by way of a 10-minute stroll to the Egmont Adventure Centre, our final destination, the Princess Louisa Inlet. The boat ride takes a little under two hours each way, with towering 7,000-foot cliffs, numerous waterfalls, and even some ancient petroglyphs—rock paintings of Coast Salish First Nations origin—lining the route. An added thrill: before reaching the inlet, you pass through the Malibu Rapids, though thankfully for us, it was a calm day, so this section was easygoing.

Once through the rapids, we found ourselves in a breathtaking fjord encased in cliffs and trees, leading us to the majestic Chatterbox Falls, where we enjoyed a relaxed picnic overlooking the cascades.

Sadly, we didn’t have time to experience more, but the centre also offers other tours, including a sea lion boat tour, an Inlets boat tour, and kayaking in various locations.

Discovering Serenity: The Painted Boat Resort & Spa

Before making my way to the Painted Boat Resort and Spa, I decided to revisit the Skookumchuck Rapids once again, this time hiking to the North Point for a fresh view—and it didn’t disappoint.

Then it was onto Pender Harbour, about a 33-kilometre drive away, my next stop being Pender Hill. I’d heard the views from the top were incredible, and it didn’t disappoint. The steep, 30-minute climb was well worth it, as I was rewarded with amazing panoramas over the Malaspina Strait.

From there, it was onto the last leg and Gibsons Landing at the southern end of the Sunshine Coast, a quaint seaside town filled with shops, restaurants, and another lovely marina. An interesting wander I walked along the waterfront trail, ending at a strip with some great eateries, including the iconic Molly’s Reach, a landmark from CBC’s Beachcombers series.

More than just a pretty coastal hangout, I spotted a pair of deer near the water and watched them for a while before heading back to explore Gibsons Public Market, where you’ll find fresh produce, seafood, and the Tidepools Aquarium.

Eventually, it was time to finally make my way to Madeira Park and the Painted Boat Resort, my spacious two-bedroom loft villa complete with a balcony overlooking the marina. A fabulous way to end the adventure, this lovely home away from home is close to Francis Point Park and several hiking trails that are favoured by locals.  Of course, hiking boots always at the ready, I couldn’t resist adding a few extra miles to my journey before my return to the UK.

Reflecting on an Unforgettable Journey

Whether it’s your first time visiting the country or you’re returning for more, Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast are the perfect blend of adventure, wildlife, and serene beauty. Being able to explore at your own pace allows the freedom to discover the region’s many hidden gems, making a fly-drive the ideal option.

For myself, this trip was a reminder of the beauty of stepping out of your comfort zone, embracing new experiences, and letting nature be the ultimate guide. If Canada calls, I wholeheartedly recommend answering.

Jeanette’s 18-day self-drive journey can be tailored entirely to your own preferences and schedule. With over 30 years of travel expertise and regular visits to British Columbia, our team has personal up to date knowledge of all the lodges and experiences we recommend, ensuring your adventure is both unique and unforgettable. Call our specialists on 020 8776 8709 or email us at Canada@frontier-travel.co.uk to start planning your holiday in the Pacific province today!