Unlock Atlantic Canada’s Secrets with Fascinating Experts
Adventure Canada’s ship rests peacefully, embraced by the rugged beauty of Francois Bay ©Dennis Minty
Picture a land where the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean meet towering cliffs and pristine beaches, where the forests whisper tales of a bygone era, and the people exude a warm, welcoming spirit that will capture your heart. This is the essence of Atlantic Canada—a region that beckons travellers to step off the beaten path and immerse themselves in a tapestry of natural wonders and cultural treasures.
To guide you on this incredible journey, our Frontier Chronicles podcast will introduce you to the unforgettable experiences that make the four provinces of New Brunswick, Newfoundland and Labrador, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island truly unique and captivating destinations.
Part of our ‘Where to Next?’ series, running on Facebook and Instagram, in this post we will also be encouraging you to pack your bags, adjust your compass, and embark on a spectacular Circumnavigate Newfoundland small ship expedition with Adventure Canada. Read on as local guide and photographer, Dennis Minty, and staff member and author Kevin Major, share their fascinating encounter with Francois, the charming, remote outport community, which is nestled on Newfoundland’s rugged southern coast, visited on the sea faring adventure.
Are you ready to dive into the enchanting world of Newfoundland? Then let’s begin…
“Just imagine it. Off the port side: towering cliffs of granite, incised by deep fjords pointing north. To starboard: the open sea stretching away more than four thousand kilometres to South America. If you see another boat, you can’t help but wonder, “Where did that come from, and where is it going?”
The first thing you’ll notice as you approach Francois by sea is the lighthouse on the western headland, guarding the entrance to the deep, sheltered fjord… an isolated town on what is arguably Newfoundland’s most isolated coast (some call it “the forgotten coast”).
The skyline is dominated by the majestic, often cloud-enshrouded Friar, standing at 182 meters from its sea-washed base to its summit. If you did not know the town was there and stumbled across it, it would be a shock to the senses. Your brain would say to itself, “How can this be here?”
But here it is—and it has been since the 1700s! Isolation takes on a whole new meaning in Francois (pronounced “Fran-sway” by most locals). Accessible only by boat or helicopter, there is not a car or truck to be seen. If you hear the sound of an engine, it’s likely that of a boat.
Overlooking the tranquil bay, where colorful houses of Francois reflect the charm of Newfoundland’s coastal life ©Dennis Minty
Wooden and concrete boardwalks knit the town together. Most people walk from home to home, down to the stage (what Newfoundlanders call a working shed, located above the tidal zone), or to the single shop in town. It stocks everything imaginable in cramped aisles and crowded shelves, departmentalised according to use: food, hardware, boat supplies, and so on. It is also the post office and liquor store.
Meeting the locals of Francois – A Warm Welcome
First off of the ship were hikers bound for the top of the Friar, a challenging ascent, and a more challenging descent. But absolutely worth the view. A second hiking option took others to a pond above the town and maybe on to the lookout, with side trips to a waterfall and Cook’s Hole. As for the remainder of us, the walkways through town (ATVs are the only vehicles) were charming in themselves. Local residents turned into impromptu guides, more than willing to give the insider’s perspective on François. There was a general store and even the lure of a shed “bar,” its grassy surroundings offering the perfect spot for a cold one in the t-shirt weather.
The last Zodiac at 5:45 p.m. returned the final few reluctantly to the ship. Just a quick supper and a reload of the Zodiacs, so many of us can head back to town.
When we enter the hall, our senses are overcome by the tables laden with molasses cookies, raisin buns, date squares, lemon squares, and fresh home-made bread, plus partridgeberry, blueberry, and bakeapple jams, and more—all prepared in the local kitchens. The room buzzes with chatter between the visitors and the ‘livyers’—the people who live here year-round.
There was a dance on the go, featuring Darren—the best one-man band on the coast for sure. How about that fan favourite Cocksie Walksie Dixie Bird? Hadn’t heard it before? That didn’t seem to stop anyone from rockin’ the community hall, energised by the table spread with local goodies.
By the end of the second song, about half of the room has been up dancing. By the end of the third, it’s a squeeze to find a place on the dance floor. Everyone has turned into uninhibited teenagers dancing their hearts out!
Everyone in the room is dancing to the jaunty tune or laughing where they sit. Perhaps they’re not the cleverest lyrics, but they are enduring! All the next day you’ll hear them in the ship’s passageways, stuck like Velcro.
No one will ever forget their day in Francois. It stimulates the soul and reminds us about what makes us happy, about the difference between wants and needs, about the importance of good neighbours and good stories, about the resilience of sea people, about the incredible beauty of a stark landscape, about the restorative power of music, and about how we can live in such different places and share so much. Who knows—you might even find a bit of yourself that you had forgotten!”
Discover the Untamed Beauty of Newfoundland: Your Adventure Awaits!
Exploring the breathtaking Bay of Islands on Newfoundland’s Bonavista Peninsula, where dramatic coastlines and tranquil waters create a stunning natural paradise ©Dennis Minty
An unparalleled opportunity to explore the rugged beauty of Francois and other hidden gems along Newfoundland’s coast, join Adventure Canada’s 13-night Newfoundland Circumnavigation small-ship expedition, or visit more of Atlantic Canada.
Our team of dedicated experts is standing by, eager to help you craft the perfect itinerary that captures the essence of this captivating region, so call our specialists on 020 8776 8709 or email us at Canada@frontier-travel.co.uk to start planning your holiday.
